Encountering another perfumer is always an exciting adventure. It can sometimes be unsettling, but when artisan minds come together there is nothing more gratifying.
Perfumery is a magical ride. This art is an intellectual endeavor, at least in my experience, but at the same time it lives in the realm of creativity. Beautiful fragrances require that kind of blending of the intellect and the spirit of creation.  What makes the meeting of minds and spirit even more delightful in the art form is when the perfumers share a love of natural raw materials because they share the knowledge that nothing compares to nature and its life supporting phenomena.

Recently, I had a rare opportunity to speak with perfumer Emily Voth at the New Luxury Award in Paris. She’s had a fascinating journey from a very successful soap maker to the art of natural perfumery. Her perfume Cade Black is the epitome of dark, rich incense that speaks to the depths of the human spirit.​

Can you tell us about your brand or process in creating natural perfumes?
After selling our aromatherapy body care business six years ago,  I wanted to explore the next level of plant naturals, to take it up a notch. Aromatherapy has become mainstream – thankfully, and fantastic - but I wanted to learn even more about plant offerings – to increase my knowledge of what the plant kingdom generously gives us. 
 
So delved into exploring  C02 extracts, enfleurage, absolutes, burning resins, the history of perfume, plant vibrations, and what smell means for of all us.  Having been loosely interested in the supernatural, and spending more time in the Redwoods in Big Sur, California, I was moved by  the magic the forest creates, their healing frequencies, their energy that soaks into your soul, and the endorphins that pump when emerging yourself in nature and the forest.  I wanted to create a brand around this magic. Where you enter a world of pure pleasure, where your soul vibrates when using the creations.  Cade Black creates pleasure provoking products - all with a touch of unapologetic, irreverence of course!

What is your vision for Natural Perfumery in the Future?
Wouldn’t it be wonderful to expose as many noses as possible to plant based fragrances and products, to share the forest. Once your nose is trained for naturals, you never go back.  Let’s reach for a day in the future where the forest has a party and we’re all invited – music, frolicking, endorphins flowing. 
 
Do you think this movement is an evolution or a revolution in the fragrance industry?
An evolution.  There is much money tied up in selling synthetic fragrances. Until the consumers move their purchases away from synthetics and graduate to naturals, production of synthetic fragrances will continue.  This is why education, exposure, and immersion in the pleasure from plants is so important. 
 
What excites you when it comes to being in the IPF community?
I’m excited about hanging out with the smart, innovative, and interesting people in IPF to learn, share, sniff, and explore he magic from plants all over the world.  How wonderful to hang with plant people whom all share in plant love! And of course, stimulating the senses with international travel is always a good thing. ​

Natural perfumery is an art born from earth and spirit, a delicate dance between science and the mystic. In the hands of a natural perfumer, botanical essences are gathered, coaxed, and woven into fragrances that capture nature’s quiet miracles. To work with these raw materials is to step into an ancient lineage, one that resonates with the spirit of alchemy as much as the craft of perfumery.
Like alchemists seeking to turn base metals into gold, the natural perfumer transforms flowers, woods, and resins into olfactory wonders that reveal beauty, mystery, and memory. This practice is at once physical and spiritual, an alchemical journey toward balance, harmony, and beauty.

Each raw material is a gift from nature, carrying the memory of sun, soil, and rain. These plants have lived and breathed, absorbing the spirit of their environment, and when harvested and distilled, they become essences of time and place—a living record of the earth. As petals, leaves, roots, and resins transform into fragrant oils, they pass through a process that echoes the old paths of alchemy. Where alchemists saw gold in their base metals, the perfumer finds poetry in these natural materials, treating them with reverence, unlocking their aromatic souls through steam, pressure, and patience. The goal is not merely to extract scent, but to capture something deeper—the essence, the pulse of the plant itself. In this, the natural perfumer is on a journey of transformation, one that is as much about discovery as it is about creation.

In essence, natural perfumery is alchemy—a transformation of nature into beauty, experience into memory, earth into spirit. It is a reminder that, in our fast-paced, technology-driven world, there is still a place for the slow, mindful craft of creation. To be a natural perfumer is to be an artist, a scientist, and a seeker, journeying through the shifting boundaries between matter and the divine. In every bottle is a story, a fragment of the earth, a whisper of magic that only nature can provide.

If this calls to you, we invite you to discover more through our Natural Perfumery course or our Raw Material Extraction master class, where the philosophy, techniques, and artistry of natural fragrance creation await. Or explore our collection of courses and masterclasses, and let your journey into the world of natural perfumery begin. ​​

Exploring Muir Woods: Nature’s Cathedral Near San Francisco
In the heart of Marin County, just a short drive from San Francisco, lies the breathtaking Muir Woods National Monument. Established in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt, this protected area serves as a sanctuary for one of the last remaining stands of ancient coastal redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens). This magnificent forest not only showcases some of the tallest trees on Earth but also offers a captivating insight into the cycle of life, death, and rebirth that defines its ecosystem.

Roxana Villa is a Certified Natural Perfumer and the Founder of her brand Illuminatedperfume. She also chaired the panel that developed the IPF Standards for Natural Perfumers.

​When and how did you start becoming a natural perfumer?
My trajectory into the realm of perfume was non-linear, looking back, l am able to see many sign-posts on the circular path I’ve been on.

A few sign-posts leading to becoming a natural perfumer are deeply embedded in my matriarchal lineage, the privilege to travel quite a bit as a child, a deep interest in the arts and natural remedies. I was born in the port city of Buenos Aires, Argentina, the women in my family had European roots and a rich culture in cooking, knitting and home remedies. and all wore fine fragrances. 
In the mid 60’s my parents moved to Los Angeles where my very independent mother, with limited English, worked in a knit shop in Beverly Hills while my father worked for Argentine Airlines. I had the opportunity to travel back and forth between LA and Buenos Aires, as well as visit Paris quite often due to my mother's work in fashion.
After graduating from Otis Art Institute with a Bachelor of Fine Arts Degree (BFA) and skill sets as an illustrator, letterpress printer and book binder I moved to NYC to pursue a successful career as an award winning freelance illustrator. My niche within the print industry was focused in the wellness and environmental arenas.
After a six year stint in NYC I moved back to LA, gave birth to my daughter Eve who I raised holistically. When Eve was three I was introduced to aromatherapy, attended the first World of Aromatherapy Conference in San Francisco and then studied to receive a certificate and began teaching aromatherapy at the Massage School of Santa Monica while still working as a free-lance illustrator.
Eventually I was able to fuse all my passions and talents, launching Illuminated Perfume at the Ojai Lavender Festival in 2008.

If flowers were always a sign of protection to people wearing crowns of flowers on their heads since antiquity, for states they were also considered as symbols of power.
The Olympic Games Opening Ceremony inspired me to share this with you. The Olympics should be a celebration of unity, strength, and cultural identity, bringing together nations from around the globe, making the flower thematic a perfect choice for an Opening Ceremony. 
As each country has its own perfume heritage, each country also owns the powerful symbolism that flowers hold. These natural emblems not only represent national pride but also embody the spirit and values of the cultures they belong to. Flowers possess a unique power that transcends mere beauty, serving as potent symbols of identity, strength, and cultural heritage across the globe. Each country proudly embraces its national flower, which encapsulates the spirit and values of its people. As we explore various flowers and their meanings, we discover how they reflect the essence of nations and their histories.

Take, for instance, France's iconic Fleur de Lys. This elegant flower has long been associated with French royalty and heraldry, symbolizing purity, light, and life. Its distinctive shape and rich history make it a powerful emblem of national identity. The Fleur de Lys serves as a reminder of France's cultural heritage and the values of honor and excellence.

In Japan, the cherry blossom, or Sakura, is a beloved symbol that represents the transient beauty of life. The fleeting nature of the blossoms reminds the Japanese people to cherish each moment, as they bloom for only a short time each spring. This flower embodies resilience and the acceptance of life's impermanence, making it a poignant representation of Japanese culture.

The United States honors the rose as its national flower, a symbol of love, passion, and resilience. The rose's diverse colors and varieties reflect the country's rich tapestry of cultures and histories, celebrating the spirit of freedom and justice that the nation strives for. It has become an emblem of unity and compassion, reminding citizens of their shared values.

In India, the lotus flower holds deep spiritual significance. It symbolizes purity, enlightenment, and rebirth, often associated with important deities in Hinduism and Buddhism. The lotus thrives in muddy waters, rising above the surface to bloom beautifully, representing the idea of overcoming adversity and achieving greatness despite challenges.

Further south, South Africa’s national flower, the King Protea, stands as a symbol of hope and change. Its unique appearance and resilience in harsh environments echo the strength and diversity of the South African people. The King Protea serves as a reminder of the country’s rich natural heritage and its journey toward unity and growth.

In Mexico, the dahlia, or "cempasúchil," is a vibrant flower that plays a crucial role in the Day of the Dead celebrations. Its bright orange and yellow hues symbolize the sun and are believed to guide the spirits of loved ones back to the world of the living. This flower encapsulates the Mexican values of remembrance and honouring one’s ancestors, celebrating life and death as intertwined experiences.

These flowers, among many others (check our blog powerfulflower.blogspot.com/?view=magazine), serve as powerful emblems of identity and connection. They evoke emotions and memories, fostering a sense of belonging and pride within their respective cultures. Flowers remind us that even in a world filled with differences, there is beauty in diversity and a shared appreciation for nature's wonders.
This is an IPF suggestion for the next Olympics Opening Ceremony in Los Angeles.

Thank you to everyone who contributed to making our event such a success!

In partnership with the Natural Perfumery Teacher's Academy, Natural Perfumes Only, Autur City and the Tisserand Institute, Creezy Courtoy delivered an insightful presentation on IPF activities, highlighting IPF Education, the Natural Perfumers Certification, and the World Perfume Museum Collection. She also emphasized the importance of olfaction and introduced her Olfaction Training Course for both perfumers and children.

Lakenda Wallace captivated the audience with her course designed to assist nurses in supporting Alzheimer’s patients, while Rachel Binder explored the fascinating quantum physics of plants and the higher hertz healing power of roses and other plants to restore cellular organization.

Terry Johnson presented his visionary program, Healthy Homes for America, adding a unique dimension to the event.

We would like to thank all the amazing perfumers from Los Angeles and New York who participated in the Scent of Healing event in Malibu.

The public truly enjoyed the experience discovering Natural Perfumery with: Jackie Brenner - De Kloka, Leanne Hirsh - Perfumera Curandera, Lakenda Wallace - Modern Peasant, Rachel Binder - Pomares Stolen Perfume, Amy Bilodeau - Orris Water, Victoria Artz - Common Senses and Rodney Hughes - Therapeutate Perfume.
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Each visitor received a special gift bag that included a lava bracelet. They had the opportunity to explore and try perfumes at each perfumer’s booth, selecting their favorite to add to their bracelet. 
The feedback was fantastic, and every visitor left with at least one perfume. 

Everyone over the past several decades has been exposed to amazing technological advances that have created many well-known benefits. Yet, these technologies have also included unintended and largely unnoticed Dark Effects for Natural Essences.

Separation from Nature
One of the most negative effects of technology on natural essences has been to separate us from nature. Consider what the world would be like if synthetic fragrances (first synthesized in the late 19th century) were allowed to totally replace natural perfumes and other natural essences: no flowers and plants grown for their aromatic, medicinal properties which have contributed to the health of humans for thousands of years. Without those flowers being grown, pollinators could also eventually disappear. Since bees are already threatened from a number of issues, this situation alone could tip the scales, and risks our ability to produce sufficient food naturally.  
Some people actually claim that this would be positive, since technology will allow us to develop food synthetically. But is this really the world we want for ourselves, our children, and their children?
This is why IPF strongly urges everyone in the natural essence community to join with IPF in rejecting synthetics, following IPF/SEOS standards, and reconnecting with nature.
One of the challenges to reconnecting with nature is widespread internet support for synthetics. For example, anyone can search and find statements from the “perfume industry” stating that it is impossible to create perfumes without the use of synthetic ingredients. Of course, that opinion fails to explain how perfumes were developed for thousands of years prior to synthetic fragrances!

USDA Organic Certification
In addition, many perfumers and consumers are under the false assumption that when products are Certified Organic (organic certifications around the world now uses US Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic Certification) those products are synthetic pesticide-free. 
They are not. Here is the USDA web page explaining that most (but not all) synthetic pesticides are prohibited:  https://www.ams.usda.gov/publications/content/allowed-prohibited-substances  
This is exactly why IPF developed IPF/SEOS standards which are superior to organic standards by totally prohibiting the use of all synthetic substances including synthetic pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, and synthetic fragrances.
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Perfume Oils and Fragrance Oils
Lastly, the synthetic chemical industry is working hard at replacing natural sources with their synthetic substitutes. For instance. some unscrupulous companies use very deceptive ways of disguising the synthetic basis of their products, such as using terms like “perfume oil” or “fragrance oil” that are actually synthetic oils. Once they get a foothold in the natural essence community, they will be tough to dislodge, as is the case in India and other countries already. Here is just one example that natural perfumers and aromatherapists should be aware of:
https://makesy.com/collections/fragrance-oils/shop-by_fragrance-oils?sort_by=manual
The future successes of the natural essence community depend on educating ourselves and our customers to recognise the importance of only using products we know to be truly natural, which are the best reasons for supporting IPF’s guidelines and standards.
 

How Dr. Param Singh Transforms the Market with Holistic Health Solutions & Aromachology Goods.
 
During the Natural Perfumery Summit on May 7, we welcomed and interviewed Param Singh from Sydney. Param shared his vision and scientific background with us, ultimately leading him to establish a pioneering brand that bridges the gap between science, sustainability, and the holistic formulation of essential oils. His brand, Nirhu Lifestyle Organics, offers a wide range of holistic products including aromachology products and holistic supplements.
 

Your catalog contains natural ingredients, such as plant-based supplements, essential oils, and aromachology perfumes, while guaranteeing exceptional quality to customers. How do you manage the supply chain?   
As the overseer of the supply chain and standards for quality and sustainability compliance, I ensure that all the products available from my stores/indent manufacturing meet the highest standards. Each formulation has different delivery systems to cater to holistic needs, whether olfactory, foods, skin applications, or intimate environment corrections. From the crop culture to the extraction process and research and development, I set up strict guidelines to ensure sustainability throughout the production process. 
 
My focus on sustainability allows me to have full transparency about the quality and sustainability of each product, which is crucial for customers who prioritize environmentally & health-conscious choices.

Param Singh understands the importance of considering the whole person—mind, body, and spirit—when developing his products. By blending the principles of aromatherapy and psychology, he has created a line of aromachology products that smell delightful and positively impact mood and overall well-being. In addition to aromachology products, Nirhu Lifestyle Organics also offers holistic supplements. 
 
With a deep understanding of the chemical composition of essential oils and their therapeutic properties, Param Singh is able to create formulations that are both effective and safe. His commitment to science-backed practices ensures that customers can trust the quality and efficacy of his products.
 
Let’s discover more about his unique offers. 
 
What was your initial inspiration for the unique concept of your products?  
I am concerned about the market's lack of knowledge and inadequate products. Many products need more science-based facts and meet consumers' needs. However, a strong relationship exists between sensory marketing, Aromachology, and neuroscience that can address these shortcomings.
 
One aspect of this relationship is the connection between smell or aroma and human emotions. Scent is a powerful trigger for emotions, second only to sight. This means that the right scent can profoundly impact our emotional state.
For example, studies have shown that inhaling a fresh scent can reduce food cravings. On the other hand, inhaling a sweet scent can increase craving levels for chocolate food. These findings are particularly relevant for women seeking weight loss, as they highlight the potential benefits of using scent to control cravings and regulate food intake.
 
Further research is needed to fully understand the natural effect of scent on food intake and its holistic impact on weight loss. By exploring the relationship between sensory marketing, Aromachology, and neuroscience, we can develop effective products based on scientific evidence. This will ensure that consumers can access products that meet their needs and provide tangible results.
 
What does this extensive line of products all about?  
It is crucial to have a broader range of products within one brand. This allows me to address various aspects of a person's holistic needs and offer a comprehensive solution. Moreover, I ensure that all my developments are backed by scientific testing so that customers can have confidence in the effectiveness and safety of their chosen products.
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"A rose by any other name would smell as sweet," William Shakespeare famously mused in Romeo and Juliet, encapsulating the timeless allure of the rose. Dubbed the queen of flowers, its rich and captivating history continues to enchant us.
Legend has it that Venus, the goddess of love, bestowed the rose with its bewitching fragrance—a blend of her blood and a kiss from her son Cupid, who, enamored by its beauty, imparted the flower with its divine scent. This mythical origin, as recounted by the Roman poet Virgil, symbolizes our enduring fascination with the rose, the undisputed queen of flowers.

With over 150 species and thousands of hybrids, the rose palette spans an array of colors and forms. The Centifolia and Damask roses, celebrated for their exquisite scents, are perfumery's darlings, while English roses are cherished for their robust, delightful fragrances. These English varieties, emblematic of unity in the aftermath of the War of the Roses, embody a spectrum of aromas found in classic old and tea roses, categorized into five distinct types: myrrh, fruity, musk, old rose, and tea.

Usage in History
The rose's legacy is as rich as its fragrance. In Ancient Egypt, high society women were anointed with rose pomades, and Cleopatra famously used rose-petal-infused oil for her skin. Ancient Rome's daily spa rituals included baths and massages with rose-scented oils, celebrating the flower as the pinnacle of perfumery. The hanging Gardens of Babylon showcased scented plants, with roses earning the kingdom fame for their unmatched beauty. In the Arab world, roses symbolized wealth and voluptuous beauty, with rosewater serving as a luxurious gesture of hospitality.

In India, divine statues are bathed in rosewater during religious ceremonies, while in China, the T’ang era's trade exchanges with the Arab world introduced roses to tea ceremonies, a tradition that persists.